A relaxing stay at Palm Garden Resort (Hoi An, Vietnam)

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Our stay at Palm Garden Resort in Hoi An was to put it simply perfect. It only took seconds to realize it. As the taxi drove up the drive way to the open air grand entrance of the Resort I knew we were in for a treat. The entrance of the hotel is grand and beautiful. The staff welcoming, warm and professional. And if the modernity and bright cleanliness of the hotel is not what you envisioned Vietnam to be like, the traditional clothing worn by the staff will quickly remind you of where you are.  Before arriving, we were concerned with the distance from the actual town of Hoi An but all our worries were put to rest as soon as we arrived. There were free hotel shuttles taking guests to and back from town which is only 5 KM away. It’s best to stay at the beach resorts rather than the town because the hotels have so much more to offer as oppose to staying at the town.

The Grounds:

After a smooth check in we were walked through the lush green grounds of the large hotel to our room. The hotel is split into various sections across 5 hectares of beach front property. Of course not all rooms are ocean view but I certainly enjoyed the tropical garden view to that of the beach. Pathways connect all rooms and buildings to the beach, central pool, spa and various restaurants.

 The Room:

Our room was exceptionally clean, with large sliding windows leading out to the patio and directly on to the gardens offering a peaceful and relaxing environment where you can only hear the birds and bees. The furnishings were modern Vietnamese. The air conditioning was on full blast and worked really well. The bathrooms were nice and modern although they could use an update as there was a musty smell in the air. My only real complaint about the rooms were the thin walls. In the case that you had a neighbor staying next door, conversations and television noise came through the thin walls. It wasn’t much of a concern of ours since we started our days early in Hoi An either in the fishing village or lying by the beach and ended our nights by coming back late from the village, hands full of shopping bags (I happened to buy some amazing art in the village).

Restaurant:

The food at the hotel is really good and authentic but costs well above what an average meal in Vietnam typically costs. The traditional Vietnamese food specific to the region of Hoi An is available on most of the menus at the hotel and is not to miss. Definitely try the white rose dumplings and lemongrass beef. The breakfast buffet is out of this world with a selection of European continental treats such as waffles and pancakes but also a selection of chinese dim sum, congee, vietnamese pho and much more.

Spa:

The Spa is serene and beautiful from the outside. There are fish ponds surrounding the spa and many of the hotel grounds. And while the grounds are beautiful, the actual services are not very professional (and cost more than what you would typically expect in town). I had a massage and a facial at the Spa which was definitely not what I expected and paid for. The change rooms include a steam and hot sauna and an older jacuzzi.

Overall?

The experience at the Palm Garden Resort was exactly what we needed after our dizzying whirlwind experience in Hanoi and Halong Bay. It is the perfect place on the beach to relax before making your way south to Saigon.

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Dinner at Fork- Old City (Philadelphia, USA)

Last week I started a photography class at Fleisher Art Memorial and had the pleasure of meeting a fellow classmate and foodie who is part of the International Wine and Food Society. He was a wealth of knowledge on the Philadelphia food scene and where I must dine prior to leaving this beloved city which I have grown to love so much.  One of his top recommendations was the new and improved Fork, another was Bibou which I have yet to try.  Of course the next night, I found myself sipping on a glass of wine at Fork’s bar waiting for a table.

Chef Kulp revitalized this once gem of a restaurant in Old City by joining recently and creating the new and innovative menu. He came over from my beloved Torrisi Italian Specialties in New York City.  The result is fantastic. Everything we tasted was flavorful, fresh and brilliant.

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The decor at Fork is elegant, sophisticated and beautiful. The open kitchen faces the dining room which is lit with dim lighting. There is a banquette running along the wall lined with dining tables. A large bar in the center of the restaurant and a lit up tree in close to the kitchen.

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The menu was what I would describe as ‘farm to table’ but was ever so quickly corrected by our server who called it ‘local’ instead. I guess restaurants are trying to move away from labeling their cuisine as ‘farm to table’ since its become an overused term which many places use freely while not sticking to the principles. Local however, means that all their ingredients are locally sourced. In the end it really means the same thing. The food is local!

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Upon ordering our meal we were served with a board of bread with a fancy Italian name, but lets call it what it was: a chewy bagel with a spread of house made cream cheese.

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For our starters we ordered the First of Spring Salad and Veal Carpaccio. The Spring salad combined many local greens and sliced radishes served in a ginger creme fraiche. A wonderfully healthy salad and a great start to our dining experience. 14-DSC03583 The Vitello Tonnato was a delicious serving of veal carpaccio, raw tuna with tonnato sauce. My only critique of the dish was the cubes of cucumber which were not crispy and had a soft texture (sort of like when your fridge is too cold and your cucumber freezes as a result). It would have been a perfect dish had those cubes of cucumbers been crisp and fresh.09-DSC03593 We were served with a complimentary dish, the Smoked Quail. It was served with quail claw in tact. I’m assuming this helps reinforce the ‘local’ aspect of the dish. Nevertheless, despite the claw looking up at me the dish was wonderful. I’ll definitely order it the next time around. The quail meat was tender with a smokey flavor served in a cherry sauce, green almonds and heirloom chicories.

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I was advised to stick with the pasta and so it was no surprise that for our main dish, all three at our table ordered from one of the pasta dishes. The black and white pici being my dish was my favorite of the three, although all three were so good it was hard to determine which was better than the other. I’d say that when ordering a pasta dish at Fork you just can’t go wrong. The black and white Pici was the most interesting dish. The pasta itself was as described, black and white, as half was darkened with squid ink. The crispy bread crumbs was such a wonderful addition and added a crunchy texture to the soft noodle dish. The seafood was fresh and flavorful. 12-DSC03617 The Smoked Pumpkin Tortelloni (a larger version of the tortellini) was served in a brown butter sage flavored sauce with crunchy walnuts. I’ve seen versions of this dish at many Italian restaurants and it is hard not to love the sweet aromatic flavors present in this dish. The one at Fork was one of the best I’ve tasted with the addition of the walnuts which again added a welcoming crunchy texture.

13-DSC03625The Pappardelle is always a favorite. This one did not fail to impress. A perfect portion of pappardelle noodles mixed with goat meat and topped with aged ricotta. It was simply delicious.

1-DSC03629Although the price of dinner was more expensive than your average restaurant in Philadelphia, the impeccable service, impressive wine list and quality of the  local ingredients make it well worth the visit.

Fork on Urbanspoon

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A recap of Manayunk’s StrEAT Food Festival (Philadelphia, USA)

On Saturday April 13th Manayunk held its biannual Street food festival on Main Street. The event drew out food trucks, foodies and crowds of people looking to taste what the city had to offer. From fried cheese curds to Mexican burritos there was a little bit of everything for everyone. The sun was shining, the music was pumping and the crowds were eating and drinking. It was the perfect way to spend a sunny Spring Saturday in Philadelphia.  Some of the best food trucks in town were gathered on Main Street delivering their signature dishes with a strawberry twist to hungry crowds. Many food trucks even ran out of food (sadly a few were already closed by the time I got around to them).  Among the most notables were Say Cheese,  Cosmic Catering, sugary cupcakes from Sweet Box Cupcakes, Philly cheese steaks from Street Food Philly, cheesy mac and cheese from Mac Mart, gourmet Philly style sandwiches Lil Dan’s, the most amazing fried cheese from The Cow & The Curd, savory gourmet sandwiches from Farm Truck Philly, the Good Phellas, juicy burgers from Spot BurgersVernalicious, Italian style pizza from Nomad Pizza, the best sweet and savory crepes from Bonjour Creperie and Trinidadian food from Mini Trini.

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The Cow & The Curd blew me away with those tiny pieces of cheesy delight. I mean, fried cheese: Enough said.

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The crepes from Bonjour creperie were oh so sweet and fluffy: oooey, gooey marshmallow, mixed with chocolate and ground graham crackers. Their crepes were very original and had a mix of dynamic flavors like their bacon, chocolate and strawberry which surprisingly was sweet and salty and mouth watering good.

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The guys at Farm Truck Philly definitely had the coolest truck on the block. Featured art work on the back of the truck are available for sale and the truck was covered in graffiti-like art.

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Cosmic Catering had some interesting vegetarian flavors in a pretzel like bread cone. What a brilliant idea.

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If you missed this year’s Manayunk Street festival, mark it on your calendar for next year but don’t fret, you still have the rest of the week to participate in their dining week.

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Burgers at Shake Shack- Rittenhouse Square (Philadelphia, USA)

It seems our generation (or atleast everyone I know) is slightly obsessed with Shake Shack burgers, claiming it to have the best burgers in the USA. That to me is one serious claim, one that can only be backed up by having tasted every single hamburger in the United States. Either way, I had to check it out for myself. The Shake Shack in Philadelphia is located downtown in the Rittenhouse Square neighbourhood. There is usually a long line, sometimes out the door. On the day we went it happened to be practically empty which was a nice surprise given that we were extremely hungry and not in the mood to wait.

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A large wall sized menu covers the wall describing what and how to order. We ordered the Shake Burger and the SmokeShack Burger. Both good.

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The hamburger patties were made to order and made it slightly  more flavorful than an all out fast food joint. We ordered with a side of fries which were disappointing.  Overall, our experience at Shake Shack was slightly underwhelming. I’m not sure what I expected going in. I guess I thought I was in for tasting the ‘best’ burger in the USA only to come out having had an average burger with less than average fries. Can someone enlighten me on what makes Shake Shack so damn good?

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Shake Shack on Urbanspoon

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Dinner of Contrasts at Fire and Ice Restaurant- Old City (Philadelphia, USA)

I was invited to Fire and Ice to try their new menu created by Chef Chris Nguyen. Driving by to find the restaurant I saw a neon blue sign. My first thought was that it was surely a club with the same name not the restaurant I was searching for. My second thought was that I was going to eat bad bar food. By the end of the night, I had learned an important lesson: never judge a restaurant by it’s kitsch decor.

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The friendly host at the front of the restaurant greeted us and walked us to our table lining against the cushioned white wall shining with dim blue lights across from the long bar. Loud hip hop music bumped through the cushioned walls and we learned that there was a private party in the back lounge area. The ambiance was definitely that of a club, and I’ve never dined in a club before. We were reassured by our server that it was a lounge and not a club, although I’m not sure how to differentiate between the two. The neon blue lights definitely gave it a club feel.

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Our server was attentive and knowledgeable and really went out of his way to accommodate us. Shortly after our drinks were served, the Chef himself came out to tell us about the cuisine and his new menu which is his version of Asian comfort food that he grew up on. He was a very passionate man who through the new menu has implemented a fusion of Thai, Korean, Vietnamese and other Asian flavors. The result: delicious, innovative and unique.

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I was really surprised at how good everything tasted. Every single dish we ordered was perfect and you could see the passion that was put into it. Others who were invited had the same prejudice only to be pleasantly shocked by the dining experience. However, in the end there is a steep contrast between the food served and the decor and ambiance of the restaurant/bar/lounge. Perhaps it compliments the theme of the restaurant, ‘fire’ and ‘ice’. The contrast between amazing cuisine, served in a neon blue disco setting.  I won’t be surprised to hear that he opened his own Asian restaurant in the future, because, Yes- he is that good!

The Food: 

We ordered a little bit of everything including the tom yum soup (Rice noodles and a spiced lemongrass broth), the Shaky Beef (wok seared sirloin, wilted watercress, pickled onions, peppered vinaigrette), Kim Chi Trilogy (cabbage with ginger, marinated crisp tofu and spicy radishes), char-grilled chicken satay served with spiced peanut sauce and a turmeric fried rice, the Char Sui Pork Loin (a deconstructed barbecue pork bun), Kal Bi lettuce wraps, pad Thai and phad kee mao (egg noodles, egg, julienne vegetables, red curry and chicken).

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The tom yum soup was very authentic and tasted like many I had in Thailand- spicy yet simple.

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The Shaky Beef was the chef’s take on the Vietnamese Bo Luc Lac, chopped steak served with watercress with the addition of fries and an egg.

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I love kimchi and loved the Kim Chi Trilogy starter dish. The Chef pickles his own kimchi and and has created a lovely small dish as a result.

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The chargrilled chicken satay reminded me of an Indonesian dish I had not so long ago. Generous portions of grilled chicken were served alongside a tasty turmeric fried rice and peanut sauce.

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The winner had to be the Char Sui Pork Loin, a deconstructed pork bun which was so rich in flavors that we both wanted more (although we resisted the temptation).

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Kal Bi lettuce wraps was the chef’s version of the Korean Kal Bi. I loved his rendition of this dish.

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The shrimp pad Thai was one of the tastiest we’ve had to date. It was very well prepared and was completely authentic and close to those we tasted on the streets and restaurants of Thailand.

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We also really enjoyed the  phad kee mao which was egg noodles mixed with red curry, chicken and vegetables. Hints of spice from the curry were in perfect harmony with the noodles and vegetables.
15-DSC_0182_3 For dessert we had the flan, chocolate cake and fried donuts. The fried donuts were served with a chocolate and orange sauce and were very good. 
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The chocolate cake served in a raspberry sauce was also delicious and was the perfect end to an interesting evening.
Verdict:
While the decor of the restaurant, crowd and decor threw us off, we loved the food so much that we were raving to our friends all weekend and will definitely be back for more of chef Nguyen’s creations.

Fire and Ice Restaurant, Bar and Lounge on Urbanspoon

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The Hungry Nomad’s Guide to Hanoi (Vietnam)

Before leaving for Vietnam, I had heard mixed reviews. Travelers either loved it or hated it. Many said it was their least favorite country based on the attitude of the locals and how they were treated. I was skeptical going in and was expecting to come out the other end disliking it. I went in equipped with my prejudice and tales of other’s travels. But, after spending several weeks in the country, the verdict is in: I loved it (and my travel companions loved it). I loved the people, the food, the country and history. Of course, there are always isolated incidents of doing bad business, not bargaining properly and getting ripped off, or coming across someone who is having a bad day and just feels like being nasty. But I didn’t find my experience to be any different from my time in other countries like Thailand (remind me to tell you the story of the time I got kicked by a seller in Bangkok after walking away from a bad deal on a necklace).

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We spent three whirlwind days in Hanoi. Arriving late at night, we were greeted warmly at our hotel, Le Mercure in the Hoan Lake District (94 Ly Thuong Kiet Street) [See map]. Our first traveller mishap occurred when my travel companion left his brand new iphone in the taxi. The hotel which had cameras on the outside, called the taxi agency and tracked down the driver who within 10 minutes brought back his phone! Besides their wonderful service, the hotel was beautiful, elegant and very clean. The staff were professional, courteous and very helpful. A continental and Asian breakfast was served from 6-10 am. A travel and tour agent desk was also located close to the dining area which helped us book many tours around Hanoi. After having spent a few days in Hanoi, we were extremely happy with our hotel choice and chose to spend an extra night after returning from Halong Bay.

Day 1 in Hanoi:

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Rangoon Burmese Restaurant- Chinatown (Philadelphia, USA)

I’ve never been to Myanmar (formerly Burma), let alone had Burmese food so when the opportunity arose to dine at Rangoon Burma in Philadelphia, I was there in a hop, skip and a jump. The restaurant is located in the heart of Chinatown and offers a clean and elegant dining environment and great friendly service.

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The menu resembled Indian with the spices, Thai with the coconut milk and Malaysian with the thousand layered bread. Indian, Thai and Malaysian are one of the most intricate and delicious cuisines in the world (at least according to my taste palette) and a mix of all three resulted in fireworks. The meal started off with an order of the thousand layered bread with a side of potato curry. It resulted in multiple orders. Thin, chewy yet crispy and greasy layers of bread that once dipped in the curry side resulted in the perfect bite.

03-IMG_8146 The crispy fried Burmese tofu with spicy dipping sauce was out of this world delicious. It was so light and fluffy, fried to perfection served with a spicy chili sauce. This also resulted in multiple orders (to be fair- there were 6 of us). 06-IMG_8149 The Burmese dumplings were a little bit too crispy for my liking on the outside. Yet, others at the table really seemed to enjoy these which were served with a sweet dipping sauce. 08-IMG_8151We all ordered separately but ended up sharing all the plates. I advise shared plates for any readers who are tempted to pay Rangoon Burma a visit. For my main dish, I had the Glass Noodle Salad which resembled the Thai glass noodle salad I have tasted in Thailand. It was a mix of slippery glass noodles, onions, mushrooms, chicken, carrot and many other fresh ingredients. It was delicious. 11-IMG_8154

The Burmese Spare ribs were very spicy, tangy and mouth watering good. The ribs were slathered in a spicy herbal sauce which tasted like green chili peppers. The meat was tender and fresh. While the sauce was too hot the white rice that went along with dish helped distill some of the spiciness.

10-IMG_8153The other two main courses ordered by the table included a chicken coconut curry and a kung pao chicken. While they were good, they resembled fast food Chinese and did not stand out as having any distinctive Burmese flavors. 13-IMG_8160-001For dessert we had the Furlada.  A sweet drink dessert of milk, rose syrup, pudding, raisins, tapioca and Asian fruit jellos. Topped with ice cream. It was very sweet and creamy similar to Filipino Halo-Halo or Hawaiian Shave Ice. It was not very good. Next time, we will leave dessert for some where else in Chinatown. 16-IMG_8171

Rangoon Burma on Urbanspoon

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Street Food in Hanoi: Bún Chả (Bún noodles with grilled pork patties in broth)

Hanoi is a major foodie destination and many like myself come equipped with an appetite, ready to try almost anything and everything (although I draw the line at eating Vietnamese dog, which I learned is still common amongst the elders).  Every foodie traveling to Hanoi should already know that street food is a way of life here. A life which many tourists don’t dare to try.  And while I was daring and ready to sit down at any of the many small street food stands, traveling with a physician prevented me from doing so. I was constantly reminded of all the reasons I should not be eating street food including parasites and traveller’s diarrhea to name a few. But how could I ignore all the smells and aroma permeating the Old Quarter. So, I took the risk and dragged the physician along with me (he refused to try but instead stared at me in horror while I sat down to eat).

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Street food is central to the life and culture of the city. At any time of day, you will see crowds of people crouched on street corners slurping away on fresh pho (literally fresh, the chicken was alive only a few hours prior to cooking). While I was excited to try some phở, I ended up sitting down on my first day for a mystery meal. Mystery because each stand only serves one dish. And I did not know what dish it was I would be eating, having selected the spot based on the crowds of people munching away. All I know is that it was good. Very good. And I wanted more. But what was it? No one spoke English. So I took a photo and decided to investigate later.

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I later learned that the mysterious and delicious meal I had (all less than a dollar) was the popular and quintessential bún chả dish. A serving of crispy, caramelized slices of pork (although at the time I could swear it was chicken), along side a a bowl of bun noodles, and a bowl of warm light fish sauce based broth with small slices of pickled green papaya. A plate of fried spring rolls –nem cua bể was served alongside the bún chả. Probably the most delicious spring rolls I’ve yet to taste in my quest for Vietnamese food. A combination of minced pork, glass noodles, mushrooms and bean sprouts wrapped in egg roll and fried. All this was served with a basket of fresh herbs and vegetables.

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Once the dish arrived, I was not sure what to do with it or how to do put it together. In such a scenario, imitation is essential. I looked around and noticed that all the localers (who were eyeing me suspiciously) dumped the grilled pork patties (thit bam) into the broth. Next, the noodles were dipped in the broth picking up a piece of pork on the way before gently placing in the mouth.

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Vietnamese Cà Phê adventures in Hanoi, Vietnam

One of the highlights of our trip to Vietnam was the abundance of high quality, rich, chocolatey coffee on every corner- all for less than a dollar. The Vietnamese know their coffee and take it very seriously. Yet, don’t go searching for fancy shops with overly happy baristas serving multiple lettered coffee drinks. Some of the best coffee we had were on street corners and curbside food stands. Just some shabby plastic stools, laminated tables and the buzzing sound of motorbikes.

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One of the best discoveries was cà phê sua chua or known to us foreigners as yogurt coffee. At first, a bit apprehensive to try coffee with yogurt. What could be so good about that? But after first taste, we were left wanting more, ordered seconds and for the remainder of our trip searched for ca phe sua chua on every occasion (sadly it was not so popular in the South). The bitterness of the coffee blends perfectly with the slightly sweetened yogurt.

2-DSC_0337Cà phê sua chua consists of a Vietnamese vinamilk yogurt (delicately sweet and delicious), a splash of condensed milk and strong Vietnamese coffee. Ice is optional.

Another treasure was the Cà phê sua da, rich and smooth drip coffee served with condensed milk. I probably had 10 of these a day, shaking and jittery on a coffee high after each drink. In fact, most of my time in Hanoi was spent on a coffee high.

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In order to get the ultimate coffee experience it was essential to learn how to order these  drinks at places where English was hard to come by. Usually pointing to the drink did the trick but otherwise the coffee vocabulary musts include: cà phê  (coffee); đen or sữa (black or sweetened;  nóng or đá (hot or iced).

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10 days in Vietnam- The Itinerary

Our trip to Vietnam started in the energetic capital city of Hanoi in the North and ended in Ho Chi Minh City (former Saigon) in the South. Many travelers to Vietnam choose to work their way down the slender country or work their way up from Saigon.

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Orderly Chaos in Hanoi, Vietnam

The Itinerary:

Three days in Hanoi were plenty to experience the buzzing commercial chaos of the Old Quarter with its endless markets and street food stalls, the tai chi sessions along the vast lakes and all the amazing yet daring street food.

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We then headed to Halong Bay where we spent the night on a Junk boat and took in the magnificent and majestic scenery and sea air.

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Sunrise and Tai Chi in Halong Bay, Vietnam

Departing Halong Bay at noon the next day, we arrived back in Hanoi at around 5 in the evening. We spent the night in Hanoi having a great dinner and catching a performance at the water puppet show in the Old Quarter. The next morning we took an early flight to Hoi An (via Danang International Airport). We decided to skip the Imperial City of Hue (pronounced Hoo- eh) adding two extra nights in Hoi An soaking in the unique French colonial atmosphere, pagoda’s and amazing food while getting some sun on the virgin beaches.

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Colorful streets of Hoi An, Vietnam
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Hoi An, Vietnam

Finally, we flew from Hoi An to Ho Chi Minh City spending two nights in the buzzing city spending our days touring the town and the evenings shopping and eating in the night markets.

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