Continuing our journey in the Tuscan countryside we drove from our base on an olive farm in Montalcino to Pienza in the province of Siena. The town was declared a UNESCO world heritage sight in 1996 and the Val d’Orcia on the list of UNESCO’s World Cultural Landscapes. Pienza is located between the wine producing towns of Montalcino and Montepulciano. Pienza is famous for its Pecorino cheese and it’s model Renaissance architecture. And so for those of us who love history, architecture and food, Pienza is an Italian dreamer’s heaven. The town is located on a hill overlooking the rolling Tuscan valley, a breathtaking sight on its own. A road on the south-side of the town walls allows you to take in the breathtaking views and perhaps enjoy a picnic with some local pecorino cheese and wine. We spent the day walking around the small town and its narrow labyrinth of roads filled with cheese shops. All that hunger inducing smell of cheese led us to a tiny restaurant in a side street where we enjoyed one of the best and most authentic meals during our stays in Italy (see post).
A True Tuscan Meal at La Buca di Enea in Pienza (Tuscany, Italy)
Our journey through Italy was not as thoroughly planned as other portions of our trip. I specifically made it that way so as to have the option to make a decision last minute on a whim. After spending three hot days in Florence and Fiesole we were ready to make a move and had 5 days to discover anywhere in Italy we wanted before returning to our planned itinerary in Rome. Predictably, we rented a car and made our way south through the scenic region of Tuscany.
With no destination in mind we took the suggestions of a fellow international foodie based out of Tuscany and ended up in Montalcino in Southern Tuscany. Luckily enough we made it in time for the region’s jousting competition dating back to medieval days. Ms. Foodie International was a wealth of knowledge and introduced us to her neighbors, local olive farmers who generously welcomed us into their home on an olive farm. The experience was truly out of this world and really confirmed my premonition that last minute trip planning can lead to amazing adventures.
This post is dedicated to what I can only describe as being one of the best meals in Italy. In the UNESCO World Heritage town of Pienza the smell of pecorino cheese was overpowering, great for cheesemongers like me, not so much for those who aren’t a fan. Many recommendations were made for where to eat and buy some locally made products. However, with the tiny streets and unfamiliar roads (and no knowledge of Italian) we could not find the recommended restaurant and had no reservations for the other, however, we found a place that would go down in our foodie history books.
La Buca di Enea di Enea was a tiny hole in the wall treasure ran by a husband and wife team with the best most hospitable service and down right delicious food. And it is is found only a few steps off of the main street of Pienza, Corso Il Rossellini, on the quaint side street of Via della Buca.
The menu was extensive and offered many traditional tuscan dishes including a variety of meals made with the local pecorino cheese. We ordered a cured meat tray of bresaolo served with shaved pecornio and arugula. So fresh and extremely good.
Next, I ordered my all time favorite Italian dish discovered in our very own Philadelphia: Cinghiale con Pappardelle. The meat was cooked in an aromatic range of spices making each mouthful a bite of heaven. The pappardelle cooked to perfection. I will forever dream of this meal. Next was the regional specialty, baked pecorino topped with pine nuts, walnuts and honey. What a simple yet beautiful dish and one that stayed in our memory throughout our European journey. If only I could recreate this meal. Sadly I know that in order to do so I will need to take a trip back to Pienza for only those local ingredients and the love and passion of the local people can lead to such amazing and memorable flavors.
We left the restaurant completely fulfilled and felt like we had a true tuscan meal. Staying on a tuscan oliver farmer’s farm, eating in the kitchens of locals and driving through the vast beautiful land that makes up Tuscany we knew that we had made the right choice to make Tuscany our destination.
Tapas at Quimet y Quimet in Barcelona (Spain)
Barcelona is filled with tapas bars, wine bars and restaurants making it extremely hard for those of us incapable of making decisions when provided with too many choices. After a long day of exploring the magnificent works of Gaudi it was quite tempting to stop at one of the many places along our walk. But I needed to check out one of the most famous yet hidden tapas gems in Barcelona, Quimet y Quimet.
And so we walked through many neighborhoods, across the red light district, into the North African district with halal shops and finally made it to Quimet y Quimet in the El Poble Sec only to find that it was closed. Shocked and horrified as only the Hungry Nomad can be when placed in a state of extreme hunger, I was not sure what to do. The restaurant would open in an hour and we had come too far to turn back. And so we waited…waited…and waited until the tiny little bar finally opened its doors.
Once open the place was packed within 10 minutes. Super models, tourists and locals all swarmed the place and yelled orders to the man and wife duo at the bar. We were one of the first ones there so we had bar side spots making it quite easy to point and order in a shop where Catalan language is strictly abided by.
We drank and looked around to get inspiration on what to order. A lot of finger pointing was done but the gentle man at the bar understood each and every order and spewed out open faced tapas that looked too good to eat. A piece of art waiting to be devoured. The smoked salmon with Greek yogurt and truffled honey, which brought together the milky fresh yogurt, the smoky salmon and sweet honey making it a contrast between savory and sweet and the Montado de pate with onion marmalade and balsamic drizzle are only a few of the innovative plates we tried that night. If you happen to make it to this tiny little gem your best bet is to point to the flavors you want and let the owners surprise you. You will not be disappointed.
A Design Driven Boutique Hotel in the Heart of Florence (Italy)
There are many beauties to revel at in Florence and the hotel experience should be something that adds to the experience. On our latest trip to Florence we stayed at the JK Place Firenze– a centrally located hotel which oozes style, design and class. The hotel is situated right on Piazza Santa Maria Novella, one of the many beautiful squares in Florence.
Location:
For convenience sake, the hotel is a 5 minute walk from the local train station in case you, like us, are arriving on the train from another Italian destination. The square has one of the most stunning Basilicas which can be seen from many of the rooms facing the square.
There are no signs at JK Firenze. It is discreet and unassuming and only those in the know will find their way inside. Once inside, guests are left with the impression of being in a home away from home. That is if your home is styled to the nines and is designed to perfection.
Decor:
Guests are greeted at the door by the friendly doorman and walked through the hallway to the ‘front desk’. Except, the front desk is actually a one man desk located in the middle of the hotel surrounded by a dark wood library filled with books, videos and information pamphlets. Check in felt more like arriving at a friend’s home. An ice cold glass of lemonade was handed to us, a thoughtful touch, given that Florence in August is scorching hot.
The framed life drawings, sculptures, images and books remind us that we are in the center of the renaissance art world. At this point, we make our way through the hidden elevator up to our exclusive two-level suite with a view to die for.
Rooms:
Our room was so pleasant, welcoming and beautiful that we just melted into our bed and had to really push ourselves to leave. The first floor featured a beautiful working desk, leather couch and television. The stairs lead up to the second floor bedroom area, bathroom and closet. The high painted ceilings, paneled walls and the modern pieces of furniture made this room one of the nicest during our European journey.
What made the room so special was the carefully selected furniture, design and view on to the square.
Dining:
Continuing with the family-style approach, breakfast was served in a covered courtyard at a communal table encouraging all guests to interact with one another. A buffet filled with fresh fruits, cheese, bread and yogurt is at our disposal. The table is then used throughout the day to offer guests refreshments, cakes and fruits. The big hit was the ice cold watermelon which hit the spot after a long walk around town on a hot August day.
Amenities include:
• Fresh seasonal organic fruit basket in your room
• complimentary mini bar (soft-drinks)
• Daily newspaper
• Buffet breakfast
• Complimentary organic coffee and tea during the stay
• Free Homemade finger food and cakes from J.K. Buffet
• Free WI-FI internet access
• Free access to the exclusive Olimpo SPA Steam Bath (located in via Tornabuoni, two minutes walking)
• Free access to Florence Fitness Gym (located in via dei Fossi, one minute walking),
• Free entrance to all Fiesole museums
• Cd\Dvds selection
Will cross over the bridge for a good Pho (New Orleans)
Tan Dinh is located at 1705 Lafayette St # A, Gretna, Louisiana
Telephone: (504) 361-8008
A Walk Through Moorish Granada (Andalusia, Spain)
Stepping off the train into the heart of Spain’s Moorish country was an all at once intoxicating feeling. The dramatic setting of Granada in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada with its steep climbs and eclectic neighborhoods crowned by the mystical Alhambra Palace makes it one of those places that takes your breath away at first sight.
The UNESCO Albaicin district rising steeply is covered with powder white houses and slender streets and turns filled with North African shops, tea houses and nargilleh bars. Walk a little further past Albaicin and you will reach the most underrated but most interesting and picturesque neighborhoods in Granada, the Sacromonte. Sacromonte is located on the Valparaiso hill and is known for its gypsy population. Homes are set up in whitewashed caves cut into the mountain and still used as residences. At night the sounds of the spanish guitar and flamenco performers vibrate through the neighborhood.
Walk further and you will officially make the religious pilgrimage to the Abbey of Sacromonte and the College of Sacromonte founded in the 17th century.
For where to stay see my post on Hospes Palacio de Los Patos.
A Foodie’s Guide to Tapas in Madrid (Spain)
Day 1:
Madrid can be summed up in one word: energetic. As soon as we left our luggage at our hotel we were off to discover what was in store. Of course, we were more interested in food than anything else and after inquiring were told to walk to La Latina- a neighborhood in Madrid known for its wine, innovative tapas bars and night life. Also in the same area are many famous restaurants offering traditional Madrid fare. On our way to La Latina we made a few pit stops to fill our empty stomachs and just because we couldnt resist all the seducing window displays of cured legs of ham. It was hard to focus and get to our destination without caving in and walking in to one of the many jamonerias and tapas bars.
We worked backwards. Our first stop was dessert. It looked so good it was hard to resist this pastry shop on an empty stomach. This dessert shop has been around for centuries and is located in the west end of Plaja del Sol. Two orange balls covered in sugar and a Napolitanas de Chocolate were quickly inhaled and we were off to our next destination.
Next while criss-crossinng through the streets while attempting to find our way to La Latina we arrived at Plaja del Mayor. A large pedestrian square, lined with restaurants and is surrounded by three-story residential buildings having 237 breathtaking balconies facing the Plaza. Sounds of foreign men selling annoying whistles and flying glows also covered the square (we were soon to realize that at each tourist filled square in each town and city in Europe we would again run into these men).
The square was so beautiful that we had to stop again. “But we haven’t reached La Latina” I complained to the Count. “Have you seen the inside of this place?” he said. The place he was referring to was the Museo de Jamon, translated to the “Ham Museum”. Seriously? A museum dedicated to ham? The place was covered with cured meats on walls and ceilings, slot machines and men carving legs of ham under bright lights. A large crowd of tourists and locals filled the restaurant and filled every empty seat available on the outside facing the Plaza. It was intoxicating. This was our first exposure to the ham obsessed Spaniard culture, one that both of us adapted to with ease and passion. And one that while I write this I wish was a daily part of my life.
We were seated facing the Plaja del Mayor and ordered a plate of jamon and a basket of bread served with two cervesaz. It was the perfect introduction to our Spanish adventure. But I was a woman on a mission: destination La Latina for some world famous tapas!
We passed through one of the many arches of the square and walked a few more minutes down to Cuchilleros, crossed Segovia and continue on to Cava Baja, the main street famous for its tapas. We first walked in to a jamon shop. The Count who at this point was only familiar with the Italian term ‘prosciutto’ was in Jamon-heaven. He even approached a salesman to ask whether he could ship a whole leg to America, sadly he was refused. “Lo Siento” said the Jamon man. That was the first Spanish phrase the Count leaned on our trip.
I was a kid in a candy store. Well, more like a carnivore in a butcher shop. But you get the gist. A foodie’s paradise (and not your vegan or veggie foodie, but your meat-loving one). So many great places to choose from. But that was the thing. We had to choose one. Based on recommendations we walked into Casa Lucas, a cozy, sleek tavern offering a range of wine and innovative yet traditional tapas. Here we got the fried calamaris, brought to us served whole and chopped up bar-side and mixed with the black squid ink. One word: amazing.
Casa Lucas is located at: Cava Baja, 30 28005 Madrid, Spain, +34 913 65 08 04
After our calamari dish and wine we walked down a bit further and had more Spanish wine. I was floating on cloud 9, so happy and so in love with Madrid. We were the only foreigners in a sea of spaniards which made ordering somewhat of a challenge but I’ve found pointing to objects and using hand signals really work in these dire circumstances.
We spent the evening in La Latina, walking back late at night to our hotel located by Plaja del Sol. Except, it didn’t feel so late. Crowds of people roamed the streets and the squares were filled with performers (and those undesirable salesmen mentioned above).
Day 2:
Our tapas adventures continued on the next evening starting off with the famous fried cod at Casa Labra. I had read about this place in travel guides but came about it quite randomly while taking a wrong turn off of Plaja del Sol. Cod an cod croquettes are the specialty served in a room that has remained almost untouched since the 19th century. The crowds and the smell of fried cod made it hard to resist. We walked in and ordered from the friendly man at the counter. Beer and delicious, hot pieces of fish were served to us at the standing bar.
Casa Labra is located at: Calle Tetuan 12, close to El Corte Ingles Store located in Sol
The night then turned into a sea of tapas when we made our way to Mercado de San Miguel. Crowds of hungry and thirsty people stormed the various tapas bars lining the glass walls of this foodie market. I felt right at home and ordered one dish from each and every merchant, making this foodie experience deserving of a post of its own.
Mercado de San Miguel is located at: Plaza de San Miguel, (+34) 915 42 49 36
A Feast for Your Eyes (and stomach) at Mercat de la Boqueria (Barcelona, Spain)
Mercat de Sant Josep de la Boqueria located off of Las Rambla is a 17th century marketplace housing everything from candy stands, butcher shops, fresh fish, fruits herbs and best of all tapas bars. If you are looking for boundless supply of fruits, fish and even a sheep’s head with eyes in tact you will find it here at the Mercat de la Boqueria.
Dirección:
Rambla, 91 08001 Barcelona Google Maps
Teléfono:
93 318 25 84
Horarios:
Lunes a sábado: 8:00 – 20:30 h
An Exceptional 5 Star Boutique Hotel- The Mercer Hotel (Barcelona, Spain)
If you want to experience true Gothic Barcelona in a luxurious, design-driven setting then Mercer Hotel is just the place for you. Built in 2012 into the ancient Roman walls that once enclosed Barcelona, the Mercer Hotel is one of the most exceptional boutique hotels to hit town and is even listed as a historical monument.
Location:
Located at number 7 on Calle Lledó, the building incorporates part of the Roman walls of the ancient city of Barcino, some of which date back to the 1st century A.D. What’s more hotel guests have exclusive access to the medieval paintings of the 28th defence tower. Another of the historical features of the hotel is the library on the ground floor. This part of the building has great historical significance in that it used to be on the sentry route between the 28th and 29th watchtowers of the Roman walls and features mediaeval frescoes uncovered during the renovation process. This means you will absorb history and culture in your sleep!
Decor:
Imagine Spanish meets Scandinavian. Not sure what that means? You will once you stay at the Mercer Hotel. Medieval columns and restored frescoes have been brought up to date by Spanish architect Rafael Moneo’s streamlining of old and new. The glass courtyard, Scandinavian furniture and pale wood floors create a contemporary vibe.
The Rooms:
The guestrooms are spacious, and the beds are supersized not to mention the egyptian cotton sheets and down blankets which really made it hard to get up in the morning. Although sleekly minimal in style, each of the 28 rooms has its own special feature, such as Catalan vigas, exposed brickwork, a private terrace or a two-person bathtub. Luxe detailing abounds, from the touch-sensitive Finnish beechwood bedside lamps and deep-pile rugs to the Loewe products in the minimalist bathrooms.
Facilities:
The terrace is located on the fourth floor of the hotel, between the two watchtowers, from where you can pick out the dome of the Santa María del Mar church, the Basilica of San Just i Pastor and Barcelona’s Gothic Cathedral. Here you can take a refreshing dip in the pool,or enjoy a drink at the poolside bar. At dusk, the terrace opens to the public, providing a unique setting for enjoying a cocktail whilst taking in the unparalleled view over the most ancient rooftops of Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter.
Service:
The staff is exceptionally professional, courteous and friendly. Everyone from the doorman to the concierge were more than helpful, giving us insider tips on how to get around and where to go to dodge the crowds. The concierge was fluent in several languages and made sure that we were comfortable and had everything we needed everyday. He even went out of his way to get us into our room before check-in time. They upgraded us to one of the nicer suites without us even asking. Every evening we walked in to our room to find a little treat. The first night was a bottle of champagne and strawberries with a personal note from the staff. We really could not have asked for a better experience.
Dining:
The breakfast was served in the glass enclosed gallery in the middle of the hotel. While a table of cakes, cheeses and fruits was displayed in the middle, it was in no means a buffet style service. Each guest was asked to choose from the table along with anything else from the wide range of options on the menu.
More information:
The Mercer Hotel
http://www.mercerbarcelona.com/
Calle dels Lledó 7
08002 Barcelona (España)
Tel +34 93 310 74 80 Fax +34 93 310 23 87
info@mercerbarcelona.com
Notes: This review was written for our stay in July 2012.
Egg Tarts at Casa Pastéis de Belém in Lisbon (Portugal)
The moment you take the first bite into a sweet Portuguese egg tart (better known as ‘pastéis de nata, or “cream tarts”’) you know you will be coming back for more. And if Portugal isn’t home, you will make sure to find your nearest Portuguese bakery wherever you may live to get your weekly dosage. I fell in love with natas while living in Switzerland where there is a large Portuguese population resulting in delicious Portuguese bakeries and restaurants. This famous sweet can be found all over the city in Lisbon — and country, and in Portuguese colonies like Brazil, Goa and Macau. But the best place to really taste it is in Lisbon. And the best place to taste it in Lisbon is at Pastéis de Belém in the Belem neighborhood- just a ten minute tram ride from the center of Lisbon. This is where the original and oldest natas recipe can be found. The line up is long yet moves quickly and is well worth the wait. Once at the counter you can point to what you want or just ask for the Pasteis and they will quickly wrap up the warm, sweet and creamy custard tart dusted with sugar and cinnamon in a little blue and white box for you to treasure.
Casa Pastéis de Belém is located at: 84 Rua de Belém
+351-21-363-7423