Hungry Nomad’s Guide to Manuel Antonio, Costa Rica

Finally this past week my husband, baby and I travelled to Costa Rica to spend a week on the pacific coast in a magical place called Manuel Antonio. I researched a lot before I went and somehow did not manage to find enough information to help me fully prepare for the trip. Below is my tried and tested guide to Manuel Antonio for those in need of a little bit more than what the travel guides provide you with.

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DSC_0539Flight: It was a short 4 hour flight from Atlanta to San Jose on Delta. Once we arrived in San Jose we were transported to the car rental area where we picked up our vehicle. I highly recommend booking your car in advance or you will spend at least an hour or more before all the paperwork is done and you are in your car and ready to go. GPS is a must unless you have an innate ability to travel on foreign roads and not get lost. The drive itself was picturesque and worth the 2.5 hours it took to arrive to Manuel Antonio. We passed through the countryside and jungle, saw small villages and actually got to experience Costa Rica. The other option is to take a 30 minute local flight from San Jose to Quepos. From Quepos there are buses which run along the road to Manuel Antonio National Park.

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Hotels: Manuel Antonio is actually a long stretch of road leading from Quepos to Manuel National National Park. The road is windy and positioned on the side of a mountain with hotels located on both sides. One side closer to the ocean with dramatic views, the other in the middle of the jungle and more distant views of the ocean. We had the opportunity to spend time in two different hotels on both ends: Gaia Hotel and Reserve and Parador Resort and Spa.

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Restaurants: While both hotels we stayed at had fine dining options we like to get out and see what the locals eat. For lunch on most days we ended up at hole in the walls ordering the typical tico dish, ‘Casado’ which consisted of choice of meat, black beans, rice, salad and fried plantains. The food at our hotel, Gaia, La Luna was not good especially given the price point, the only advantage was the beautiful sunset views from the restaurant and the friendly service. On our trip to our second hotel, Parador, we found Emilio’s Cafe which quickly became a favorite of mine and was frequented on more than one occasion for the food and mind-blowing views of the pacific. Other discovered favorites included the authentically Israeli Falafel Bar and off the beaten path, El Arado (see linked posts for review).  Prices in Manuel Antonio are comparable to Miami or any other international destination.

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See: The main reason anyone heads to Manuel Antonio is the National Park. Although it is one of the smallest national parks in the country it is the most visited. I can see why given its beautiful pristine beaches, abundance of wildlife and easy accessibility. Before arriving I pictured us trekking through the jungle just me, husband and baby. I prepared for the worst buying all the necessary hiking equipment and preparing mentally for hiking through the jungle with a 6 month old. When we arrived at the gates I quickly realized just how far off I was. There were many tourists lined up at the gates waiting to get in. The park only allows 800 people in so its best to arrive early. Although if you arrive early you will be arriving at the same time as the tour buses and will walk in with a large crowd of loud ‘humans’ thus scaring the wildlife. We arrived around 11 am and found it to be quieter. I highly recommend hiring a guide as you will not see anything without one unless you just happen to be an expert yourself. With our guide we saw a large family of capuchin monkeys, two-toed and three-toed sloths, tree frogs, bats, snakes, butterflies, lizards and much more. A 45 minute walk through a wide paved path led us down to the main beach where the crowds were gathered. Again, I imagined skipping through the water just me and my husband and was let down to see so many people. I guess the secret is out. Still there are many isolated spots on the beach where you can feel as though you are one with nature.

Overall, Manuel Antonio was not as developed as I thought it would be…which is a good thing. It is still authentic and lacks that ‘cater exclusively to tourism’ feel that you may get in other destinations (such as Mexico). Of course, the area is sprinkled with many hotels and restaurants but yet its still rough around the edges and wild. It was an absolute  amazing destination for those wanting a little adventure.

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A Foodie’s Guide to Cape May (Cape May, New Jersey)

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I’ll admit my experience and knowledge about New Jersey was very limited prior to moving to Philadelphia. It mostly involved landing in Newark airport and heading straight to New York trying to dodge Tony Soprano and other New Jersey cliches like MTV’s Jersey Shore and Bravo’s Housewives of New Jersey.  I had no idea that the Jersey Shore would be so alluring and would break all those stereotypes I’d build over the years in my mind (thanks to cable tv).

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Adapting to the culture in Philadelphia, we make it a point to frequent the ‘Shore’ on occasion when we need to get out of town for a quick getaway. And it may come as no surprise that our destination on the Jersey Shore is none other than Cape May: the oldest beachside resort in the country and the southernmost point in New Jersey.  Cape May has stood the test of time, breaking all Jersey stereotypes and making it through stormy weather (of most recent, hurricane Sandy).  This historic seaside resort was settled by wealthy Philadelphia families in the 18th century leading to the Victorian architecture which the town is known for.

Sleep: There are many beautiful Victorian bed and breakfasts to choose from including the Virginia Hotel but if in the mood for complete indulgence the Congress Hall is the hotel of choice. The hotel is set across the street from the beach offering beach cabanas, a pool, yoga classes and stunning views of the sea (not to mention great dining).

Eat: Amongst the many wonderful restaurants where lobster and seafood are a plenty a few stand out. For a fine dining experience, the Ebbit Room at the Virginia Hotel should not be missed.  Other less expensive and delicious choices are Louisa’s Cafe, Tisha’s Cape May and George’s Place. For a good brunch served alongside a perfect Bloody Mary, the Mad Batter restaurant is our go to place.

Sweets: After lunch a stroll through Washington Street is the perfect way to work off the calories unless you have a sweet tooth like me which means you may be in trouble. Each trip is never complete without a trip to the saltwater taffy haven at James Candy Company where you can choose from a range of flavors and pay by scale. Just a few minutes away is the Cape May Popcorn factory where the smell will lure you in before the brilliant yellow and green colored building attracts you visually.  In the summertime, crowds will line up to get their hands on some tasty frozen custard from Kohr’s Brothers. My favorite is the vanilla/orange creamsicle blend. It’s not to be missed. Just off Washington street lies the cutest and tiniest chocolate shop I’ve ever seen. Louisa’s Chocolate Bar is not to be missed if you like gourmet chocolate treats.

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