Travel - The Hungry Nomad

Viennoiserie at Beaucoup Bakery (Vancouver, Canada)

February 10, 2014 No Comments

If you know anything about me, you know that the one thing I do best and often is to travel. My latest trip took me to my hometown of Vancouver, British Columbia. I hadn’t been back home for almost two years which meant there were many new restaurants to try and review. But after two years of being away all I really wanted to do was visit old favorites. A few newer places were on the must-eat list including the most talked about bakery in South Granville, Beaucoup Bakery.

I gathered all my girlfriends for a day of venturing into Vancouver’s food scene. It was the most perfect and beautiful sunny day for it. We walked across the Granville Street Bridge and followed our stomach’s to Beaucoup Bakery. The place was packed forming a line almost out the door. I felt at home and was immediately transported back to my college years in Paris.

An assortment of Viennoiserie sat perfectly in the baskets along the wall including my favorites: Pain au Chocolat, Chausson aux Pommes and Croissants.

A pain au chocolat and pain aux raisins were my choice while my friend ordered the most tempting creation: a blue cheese and raisin twist which was truly amazing. While butter is a key ingredient to French pastries, these were drowned with butter to the point where each bite released a mouthful of butter. My girlfriends while enjoying every bite felt that theirs too was too rich in butter…if there ever was a thing. I’m not one to complain of too much butter and definitely enjoyed every bite. My girlfriends loved it so much that rumor has it they are now big fans. Me? Unfortunately I left Vancouver shortly after my first visit.

Food, Hotel, Istanbul, Summer, Travel, Turkey, Turkish

Neorion Hotel (Istanbul, Turkey)

February 3, 2014 No Comments

Our last stop this summer in Europe was Istanbul. We started at the tip of the continent in Portugal and ended in Turkey where Europe meets Asia.

Istanbul. You have won my heart. Your beauty, charm, history and friendly welcoming people. A first trip to Istanbul, I was not sure what to expect. Where to stay. What to see and eat. We ended up staying in the Sirkegi district at the Neorion Hotel, neighboring the historical Sultanahmet district where most of the historical sites are situated. The hotel is constantly rated No. 1 hotel in Istanbul by TripAdvisor, which also awarded it the Travelers’ Choice® 2013 Award: one of the top 25 hotels in Turkey, and one of the top 25 hotels in the entire world! Based on these great reviews we had to stay at the Neorion hotel and experience the greatness for ourselves.

Upon arriving through the mazed streets of the neighborhood I really was not sure what to expect. An unassuming street with a more unassuming outside appearance. Once we walked inside all worries were put to rest.

Location:

Neorion hotel is located in the heart of Istanbul’s history, culture, food and nightlife. Only minutes walk from the Topkapi palace, the Grand Bazaar, the Spice Market and everything else that you want to see in a short stay.

Rooms & Decor:

The hotel, opened in 2011, was conceived and designed to honor and reflect all of the cultures that have enriched the city and its empires.The rooms are spotlessly clean each room decorated with a large colorful historical painting of Istanbul. A welcome letter from the owners and a gift were waiting for us. The rooms were quiet even though they were facing the front street.

Dining:

The complimentary breakfast was a combination of eastern and western options. A wall of honeycomb slowly drizzling down is a hit with hotel guests.

Amenities:

Neorion hotel offers a health club with small pool, jacuzzi, sauna and two hamams. But for me the best part of the hotel was the rooftop terrace which offers free complimentary drinks at happy hour overlooking the mystical city. Perhaps the most memorable moment of our stay occurred on the rooftop while sipping on a glass of wine, watching the sun slowly descend into hues of pink and red between the minarets of the Suleymaniye Mosque while listening to the evening prayers. And who can complain of the complimentary early-evening meze buffet with delicious Turkish treats to go along with your glass of wine (or tea).

Service:

The staff were waiting to welcome us with a serving of tea. We were given a brief about the hotel and neighborhood and walked to our room. Perhaps what makes Neorion hotel so special is the friendly service and humble staff. Throughout our stay they went out of their way to make us feel at home. When you arrive at the hotel after a long flight or day of sightseeing, you are offered with a complimentary meal: a bowl of soup, a sandwich, stuffed peppers, salads, a slice of cake and a cup of coffee or tea, or other light dishes. What’s more? If you arrive early in the day like we did, you will be allowed to have complimentary breakfast and check in extra early if the rooms are ready. Really, it is this kind of service and thoughtfulness that makes the hotel so special and constantly rated number 1 on tripadvisor.

Food, Istanbul, Travel, Turkey, Turkish

Istanbul, My Heart is Forever Yours!

January 17, 2014 No Comments

Landing in Istanbul and walking through the airport was quite a dramatic change from the rest of our European destinations. The mix of cultures, religions, languages and history was evident as early as the customs line up where women covered in the Islamic hijab stood in line next to girls in short skirts. I was already in awe and felt envious. In my motherland of Iran, such freedoms are not granted and it surprised me to see how harmonious the blend of individual choices and freedoms can be in a predominantly muslim country.

The taxi ride to the Neorion Hotel was like no other. While most airports are in a dreadful neighborhood outside of town where getting to the center requires looking out at the freeway and other not so pretty scenes, the ride to the center of Istanbul was the most breathtaking airport ride of my life. We were driven right next to the Marmara, with a view onto the Bosphorus. I was surprised by the overwhelming green space and lush gardens that covered most of Istanbul. It was love at first sight. And while my love for Paris will never be replaced Istanbul rose quickly to the top as my favorite destination. Maybe it was the melancholic reminder of memories of my childhood in Iran and the similarities or maybe it was the history, the people and beauty of Istanbul that made me fall in love. I’m still not sure. All I know is I have never been so sad to leave a city behind. I am left wanting more and planning my next destination to Turkey.

Of all the amazing things that Istanbul had to offer, the hospitality, generosity and warmth of the Turkish people was what left the biggest mark on us. This post is dedicated to the Turkish people and features mostly photos of the generous people of Istanbul. From the fig stand man from whom I wanted to purchase one fig from, who gave me 3 for free and insisted on not accepting my money because he only sold by the kilo to our hotel manager who personally rode the train with the Count to the other side of town late one night to pick up medication. And so the stories and myths of turkish rip-offs all turned out to be just that: myths and tales from an angry tourists past.

Istanbul, a universal beauty where poet and archeologist, diplomat and merchant, princess and sailor, northerner and westerner screams with same admiration. The whole world thinks that this city is the most beautiful place on earth.
Edmondo De Amicis

Athens, Food, Greece, Greek food, Travel

Hilton Hotel (Athens, Greece)

December 22, 2013 1 Comment

We arrived on a hot day in August appearing out of the subway station into a hazy fog and scorching sun that can bring anyone to their knees. Our hotel of choice was the Hilton Athens situated in the Kolonaki district.

Location:

The hotel is very central within walking distance to the upscale shops, bars and restaurants of the Kolonaki neighborhood. The Evangelismos metro station is situated across from the hotel allowing for easy access to the major tourist destinations.

Rooms:

The hotel itself is everything you would expect from an upscale hilton. Great, friendly service with top notch facilities. We were generously given an executive suite overlooking the Acropolis from our room and access to the elegant Executive Lounge, with private check-in/out, in addition happy hour drinks and snacks available until late evening.

The bathroom was extremely clean and crisp with white and grey marble lining the counters and walls. Local Greek wine and a basket of fruits were waiting for us on our arrival. A top to bottom window opened up to a balcony overlooking the Acropolis in the distance. In the evening, the view turned magical with the golden lights of the acropolis reflecting from the distance.

Facilities:

In the heat of the summer, guests can also relax by the outdoor pool before freshening up and heading to the penthouse for drinks at the ever so fashionable Galaxy Restaurant and Bar.
Dining:

The rooftop Galaxy Restaurant and Bar at the Hilton Hotel is a must for anyone who is staying at the hotel and all others who are looking for a night out on the town eating haute international cuisine. The indoor-outdoor bar/restaurant is split into two sections: the bar and on one end the restaurant. We opted to dine at the Galaxy Restaurant during our short trip in Athens and were not let down. In fact, it was one of the best meals we had during our trip in Europe. Wining and dining under the Athenian stars with a view to kill, things could not get better. (See Review on Galaxy Restaurant).

The next morning we enjoyed complimentary continental breakfast enjoyed in the large Byzantino restaurant. It was one of the largest breakfasts we had and featured both local greek flavours and international food. Service was as always immaculate and friendly.

The Hilton Athens is located at: 46 Vassilissis Sofias Avenue, Athens 11528, Greece

Telephone: +1 888-414-2018

Website: Hilton Hotel

Note: Our stay at the Hilton Hotel and all meals were complimentary.

Athens, Greece, Greek food, Travel

Two Days in Athens (Greece)

December 21, 2013 No Comments

Our Italian journey ended in Rome. From Rome we took an Easyjet flight to Athens, Greece. After one and a half months of traveling and sightseeing we were ready to relax and spend time on the sandy beaches of the cyclades but not before we paid our respects to my beloved city, Athens. Most people use Athens as a stepping stone to get to the islands, not taking any time to see the city. But for me Athens is a jewel in disguise waiting to be discovered.

Athens is a city that lies close to my heart. The first time my 21st self stepped foot onto the sun-kissed concrete city I felt like I was back in Tehran, Iran. A free Iran. From the architecture, traffic, and landscape to the warm people and the amazing food everything for me was a gentle reminder of my motherland. I was lucky enough to have travelled with born and raised Athenians who knew the city inside and out and as a result was given a thorough tour of the city and what it has to offer. Athens is comprised of old and new high rises, neoclassical houses, and incomplete concrete frames. There is a certain orderly chaos that makes the city so charming. Not to mention the people who are kind, giving and welcoming. The most welcoming hosts on our journey through Europe (after Turkey) making Greece again one of my top three destinations in the world. Here is a list of my favorite things to do and see in Athens.

1. Get lost in the oldest neighbourhood of Athens, the Plaka and shop for souvenirs and trinkets. Don’t forget to bargain your price down as bargaining is a way of life in Greece. Try to find your way to Byzantino (tel: (30-210) 324 6605). Here you will find handmade ‘museum-copy’ jewelry replicating ancient Greek pieces. You can be assured that nothing here is made in China as all is made in the Athens workshop of this family run business.

2. From Plaka walk your way up the hills toward the “high city”, the Acropolis. Here you’ll see the Temple of Athena Nike, the Erechtheion (my favorite) and the Parthenon along with many pieces of stones arranged on the ground for eventual reassembly. The Count loved to re-live the history of the Persian kings burning the ancient city of Athens to the ground.

3. Visit the Acropolis Museum and revel at thousands of years of history carved in marble.

4. Spend the evening in one of the many outdoor cinemas nestled in parks and gardens around town. My favorite is the one located at the south side of the Acropolis, the Thiseion (tel: 30-210 347 0980).

5. Party it up in the lively Gazi district. It has been dubbed Athen’s coolest neighborhood with many bars, restaurants and live music venues.

6. For treasure hunting visit the Monastiraki flea market located in the Avissynias Square. You can literally find anything and everything from books to clothes to souvenirs.

7. Since I am a foodie I never miss the opportunity to visit a city’s central market, in Athens that is the Agora market. Here you can get the freshest meat, fish and vegetables along with a lively setting with lots of yelling and bargaining.

8. Eat a Greek salad in one of the city’s many tavernas washed down by a souvlaki. Or vice versa.

9. Spend the evening shopping, drinking and dining in the chic neighborhood of Kolonaki. 10. Take the obligatory photo with the guards at the Parliament building in Syntagma square.

Side note: Since my last trip to Greece in 2007, the country’s economy has suffered. I was afraid that visiting the country would deplete me of my wonderful memories and sadden me at the state of affairs. What I found was a proud people keeping their head up and hoping for change to come. Living in the United States often we only see the worst headlines on the news. Many warned us to redirect our Greece trip based on the headlines to avoid being caught in strikes and violence. Yet, it was still as safe and friendly as ever. If tourists stopped going to Greece, Greeks would suffer even more from a decrease in one of their main sources of income, tourism. So my advice is: go to Greece and live the myth for yourself! It is no wonder that it was the home of the gods as there is a certain mystical sense of beauty and history at every turn.

Florence, Food, Italian food, Italy, Travel, Tuscany

A Tuscan Meal at Alla Vecchia Bettola (Florence, Italy)

December 16, 2013 No Comments

Crossing the Arno river to the south side of Florence we discovered a whole new town where tourists were a rare sighting, locals roamed the streets and the real Florence came to life. I myself have been guilty of focusing most of my trips to Florence on the North side where most of the tourist destinations are located. This time, having already checked off all the major tourist must-do’s including the Uffizzi and Duomo we were ready to see what more Florence had in store. The vast beautiful gardens of Giardino de Boboli and Bardini are a peaceful escape from the heat not to mention extremely beautiful. But as most of the nomad’s journeys, we were in search of a true tuscan meal. Walking around the gardens we eventually made our way to Alla Vechia Bettola, a cozy, home-style tuscan restaurant with a large local following.
We arrived quiet early in the evening. Unbeknownst to us, the restaurant was still closed and the staff were around a large table eating their dinner prior to opening. We walked in on them feasting away at the same delicious food that would later be served to us. We apologized for the intrusion in the little Italian we had picked up through our journey and turned around and walked back outside. We sat waiting for them to open their doors. Embarrassed to be the first eager diners at the restaurant I pointed to my belly and attempted to explain that we were very hungry. Minutes later a gentle server came to welcome us in. The old tuscan man and wife team were there chatting away with every customer that walked in the door. Most diners appeared to be local regulars. The restaurant filled up within minutes making us thankful for having arrived early. We quickly ordered and were served with glasses of the house wine. I really wish I could have ordered everything off the menu as everything that came out of the kitchen looked divine. But sadly there is only so much a hungry duo can eat. We started off with a prosciutto and melon salad to start. It was the real thing. Fresh pieces of lemon and local cured prosciutto. For our main entrees we ordered the cheese penne and macaroni with wild boar. Both dishes were absolutely amazing and the closest thing to real italian cooking that the two of us will ever get to. Our meal was so good that the Count considered ordering a second meal and when realizing that wasn’t a realistic option suggested we go back the next day before leaving Florence.

I hesitate to recommend this restaurant only because it is so good and still remains out of most tourist’s reach. But if you are a big foodie like me and are trying to explore true tuscan dining, Alla Vecchia Bettola will not disappoint.

Florence, Italy, Travel, Tuscany

Luxury at its finest at the Il Salviatino (Fiesole, Italy)

November 27, 2013 1 Comment

No matter how many times people advise you to not make a trip to Italy in the scorching heat of August where only tourists roam the streets, somehow you will make the same mistake over and over again. Simply because you are a tourist. We arrived in Florence on one of the hottest days in August, where the sun beamed down its rays with force and might resulting in empty streets. Even the tourists were hiding somewhere. We could not find them. Florence seemed like a deadtown. I was shocked. The Florence I am used to is busy with a certain enigmatic energy flowing through its history-ridden alleys. Our stay inside the town was short and sweet. The heat only allowed so many tour line ups. Luckily, I had predicted this heat and had booked us a mini-retreat in the nearby town of Fiesole at the world class resort of Il Salviatino where we could use the suns ray to our advantage.

Location: This ravishing luxurious 15th century villa is set atop the lush hills of Fiesole overlooking Florence and the rolling Tuscan landscape. The green landscape automatically made it a few degrees cooler than Florence. It is only a short ride away from the center of Florence making it a great option for those wishing to tour Florence while getting a feel for Tuscan living.

Decor: The hotel boasts 19th-century frescoes, antique bath tubs and valuable artwork. The outdoor dining, Italian rose garden and fountains give it a serene and romantic atmosphere. On the eve of our arrival, a band arrived playing their instruments in the Italian garden where guests and locals drank wine and soaked in the beautiful energy of the moment. The villa itself is as breathtaking on the outside as it is on the inside making me wish that I could have had my dream wedding there in another lifetime. (See video: Jazz in the Gardens)

Rooms: The villa has 45 rooms including 22 private suites with stunning views. The rates typically include breakfast served in the gardens (in the summertime). Handmade authentic Tuscan linen, selected artwork and the finest leathers all add to make each one of these suites and rooms a truly unique experience. All rooms include complimentary wi-fi, rain showers, nespresso coffee machines, safes and complimentary water.

Spa: Spa Il Salviatino is operated by Florentine perfumier and cosmetologist Dr Vranjes. There are five treatment rooms set amid rolling Italian gardens, specializing in aromatherapeutic relaxation and anti-ageing treatments.

Dining: The villa has two separate restaurants, Le Serre, a more formal dining experience laid amidst a cozy room set with candlelit tables, or La Terrazza, where you can sit inside our outside.

The food was a modern take on traditional Tuscan cuisine. Favorites included the ricotta and spinach gnudi with sage butter. What was once a historic orchard has now been devoted to an organic vegetable garden, making the fruit and vegetable offerings as fresh as they can get.

Service: While all staff at Il Salviatino were courteous and extremely professional it was not the friendliest of hotels we stayed at. However, after having spent a short amount of time there I see that it is the guests manner that has perhaps led to this. Staying at the Il Salviatino is not an everyday affair, only those with deep pockets can afford to spend more than a few nights there in the summertime. Unfortunately, sometimes guests with deep pockets have a sense of entitlement and speak down to guests. Some of which we witnessed at this hotel. The staff in return have a very withdrawn demeanor which can come across as borderline unfriendly.

Pool: Open between April and October, the terraced pool area has three heated, cascading infinity pools filled with salty mineral water, overlooking a green valley and surrounded by scented roses and lavender.

Amenities: Spa, gym, library, 12 acres of landscaped parkland, free WiFi throughout, free shuttle service to Florence. In rooms: flatscreen TV, Nespresso coffee machines, minibar with complimentary mineral water; iPod docks available on request. Every bathroom has LED-lit rain showers with seats, and some have a Jacuzzi or antique bath tub. All guests are assigned a dedicated ‘ambassador’ to look after them during their stay.

Address: Il Salviatino is located at Via del Salviatino, 12, Florence, Tuscany, 50137

Europe, Food, Italian food, Italy, Travel, Tuscany

A Medieval Feast in Montisi (Province of Siena, Italy)

November 21, 2013 No Comments

In my previous post I mentioned how our trip through Italy was left up to the stars and in the end we ended up driving through Tuscany, staying on an olive farm in an olive farmer’s home in Castelmuzio and drowning in local wine at a medieval jousting competition in Montisi.

On the eve of our arrival in Montisi we were invited to feast with the locals on the eve of the jousting competition. Montisi is a small walled hill town on the outskirts of Siena. Yet, in this small town there are four distinct contradas: San Martino, Castello, Torre and Piazza. Each contrada hosts a four course dinner prepared by the towns grandmothers shared alongside endless bottles of wine and the local contrada’s chant. Walking through town I felt like I was stepping on the scene of Romeo and Juliet. It was exactly how a medeviel town should look in my mind. All along the narrrow streets were picnic tables topped with bottles of local wine. Everyone was wearing their contrada’s colors and flags. We sat next to a group of locals from another neighbouring town in the Piazza contrada section of town. One out of the four of them spoke broken english and the rest was left up to communicating the good old way, through wine, food and hand signals.

The dinner was prepared in the local square by a handful of grandmothers with the assistance of many. Large pots of pasta was served to us in plates and the grandmas walked around offering second servings sometimes forcefully reminding me of my own grandmother insisting we eat seconds.

Boundless bottles of red wine later and representatives of our contrada all dressed up in green and orange started walking toward our table asking us to pledge our allegiance to their contrada alongside a christening with the local red wine. About half a bottle of wine was poured down my throat and I can now claim that I am an honorary member of the Piazza contrada for life.

By the end of the dinner, the Count and I were on first name basis with our Italian comarades and somehow the communication skills flowed with ease. It seemed their English and our Italian had improved tremendously making me believe that the secret to speaking another language is a few bottles of wine.

The following day the four contradas paraded through town and to a field for the jousting competition where the Castello contrada won and celebrated again that evening in town with more red wine and good food.

Italian food, Italy, Travel, Tuscany

A Day in Pienza (Tuscany, Italy)

November 15, 2013 No Comments

Continuing our journey in the Tuscan countryside we drove from our base on an olive farm in Montalcino to Pienza in the province of Siena. The town was declared a UNESCO world heritage sight in 1996 and the Val d’Orcia on the list of UNESCO’s World Cultural Landscapes. Pienza is located between the wine producing towns of Montalcino and Montepulciano. Pienza is famous for its Pecorino cheese and it’s model Renaissance architecture. And so for those of us who love history, architecture and food, Pienza is an Italian dreamer’s heaven. The town is located on a hill overlooking the rolling Tuscan valley, a breathtaking sight on its own. A road on the south-side of the town walls allows you to take in the breathtaking views and perhaps enjoy a picnic with some local pecorino cheese and wine. We spent the day walking around the small town and its narrow labyrinth of roads filled with cheese shops. All that hunger inducing smell of cheese led us to a tiny restaurant in a side street where we enjoyed one of the best and most authentic meals during our stays in Italy (see post).

Barcelona, Spain, Spanish, Tapas, Travel

Tapas at Quimet y Quimet in Barcelona (Spain)

November 5, 2013 No Comments

Barcelona is filled with tapas bars, wine bars and restaurants making it extremely hard for those of us incapable of making decisions when provided with too many choices. After a long day of exploring the magnificent works of Gaudi it was quite tempting to stop at one of the many places along our walk. But I needed to check out one of the most famous yet hidden tapas gems in Barcelona, Quimet y Quimet.

And so we walked through many neighborhoods, across the red light district, into the North African district with halal shops and finally made it to Quimet y Quimet in the El Poble Sec only to find that it was closed. Shocked and horrified as only the Hungry Nomad can be when placed in a state of extreme hunger, I was not sure what to do. The restaurant would open in an hour and we had come too far to turn back. And so we waited…waited…and waited until the tiny little bar finally opened its doors.

Once open the place was packed within 10 minutes. Super models, tourists and locals all swarmed the place and yelled orders to the man and wife duo at the bar. We were one of the first ones there so we had bar side spots making it quite easy to point and order in a shop where Catalan language is strictly abided by.

We drank and looked around to get inspiration on what to order. A lot of finger pointing was done but the gentle man at the bar understood each and every order and spewed out open faced tapas that looked too good to eat. A piece of art waiting to be devoured. The smoked salmon with Greek yogurt and truffled honey, which brought together the milky fresh yogurt, the smoky salmon and sweet honey making it a contrast between savory and sweet and the Montado de pate with onion marmalade and balsamic drizzle are only a few of the innovative plates we tried that night. If you happen to make it to this tiny little gem your best bet is to point to the flavors you want and let the owners surprise you. You will not be disappointed.

Quimet y Quimet is locatd at: Carrer del Poeta Cabanyes 25, +34 93 442 3142. Open Mon-Fri noon-4pm, 7pm-10.30pm, Sat noon-4pm, closed August

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